Borgarnes and West Iceland: Sagas, Hot Springs and Waterfalls

Many visitors head east to the Golden Circle or south along the coast and never turn north. That is a pity, because Borgarnes, Iceland and the wider West Iceland region offer an easy day out with history, hot springs and waterfalls, and the first sights are just over an hour from Reykjavík. It is a good choice if you have already seen the famous routes or want a quieter day.

Getting to Borgarnes, Iceland, from Reykjavík

Borgarnes is about 75 km north of Reykjavík, roughly an hour's drive along the Ring Road. The road passes through the Hvalfjörður tunnel under the fjord, which saves a long detour. The tunnel has been toll-free since 2018.

From Borgarnes, the main sights of the region are a further 30 to 60 minutes inland, so a full day loop is realistic: Reykjavík, Borgarnes, the hot springs and waterfalls inland, and back.

Borgarnes and the saga country

Borgarnes sits on a small peninsula in a wide fjord, with views across the water to the mountains. It is closely linked with Egil's Saga, one of the best-known Icelandic sagas, and the Settlement Centre there tells the story of the settlement of Iceland and of the saga's characters. Check current opening hours before you visit.

The town is also a convenient place for lunch or coffee, a short walk along the shore and a break before you continue inland.

On a clear day, the drive itself is part of the pleasure. The road follows the coast, then crosses wide, farmland-covered valleys with mountains on the horizon, and you pass through quieter, more rural Iceland than on the busiest tourist routes.

Deildartunguhver and the geothermal baths

A short drive inland is Deildartunguhver, one of the most powerful hot springs in Europe in terms of flow. Boiling water gushes from the hillside in clouds of steam, and a pipeline carries it to nearby towns for heating. Next to it, the Krauma geothermal baths let you soak in pools fed by that spring. Check current opening hours and prices with the baths.

Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls

Hraunfossar, the “lava falls”, is unlike most Icelandic waterfalls. Instead of dropping from a cliff, countless streams seep out of the edge of a lava field and flow into the Hvítá river over a long stretch. A few minutes upstream, the narrow, rushing Barnafoss is worth a look too. Paths and viewing platforms make both easy to visit, but surfaces can be wet and icy, especially in winter.

Reykholt and other stops

• Reykholt: the historic home of the 13th-century writer and chieftain Snorri Sturluson, with a small museum and a pool that he is said to have bathed in.
• Húsafell area: a small holiday settlement with walking paths and nature, a base for lava cave and glacier tours. Check the current options and seasons with the operators.
• Víðgelmir lava cave: a large lava tube that can be visited on a guided tour. Book ahead.

You do not need to see everything. A sensible day is Borgarnes, Deildartunguhver, Hraunfossar and Barnafoss, with a lunch stop and one extra if time allows.

Plan on roughly an hour of driving between the first stop and the last, and keep a little flexibility for lunch. Cafés and restaurants in Borgarnes and along the route are easy to find, though in winter some smaller places have limited hours, so check ahead if you are planning a particular meal.

When to go

West Iceland can be visited all year. Summer gives long days and greener scenery, and autumn brings golden colours around Hraunfossar. In winter, the route is quiet and snowy but daylight is short and the road conditions need attention. Our guide to Iceland in winter explains what to expect.

Want something similar but even more dramatic? Our Snæfellsnes Peninsula guide covers the next peninsula to the west, and our Golden Circle guide compares the classic route.

Why go with a private driver

A route like this has several short stops spread over minor roads. With a private driver you can adjust the plan on the day, for example staying longer at the waterfalls or skipping a stop if the weather changes. Ask us about a transfer or tour in the region by messaging us on WhatsApp at +354 777 3949, or see our transfers.

• Fixed price per car, not per person
• Economy (Tesla) for 1 to 4 passengers, Van (Mercedes Vito) for 5 to 7, minibus for 8 to 16 on request
• Pay a 20% deposit online and the rest to the driver by card or cash
• Free cancellation up to 24 hours before pick-up

FAQ

How far is Borgarnes from Reykjavík?

Can I see Hraunfossar as a day trip from Reykjavík?

What is Deildartunguhver?

Is West Iceland good in winter?

Can you arrange a private tour in West Iceland?