Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir: A Guide to Iceland's Colourful Highland Mountains

Kerlingarfjöll is a mountain range in the central highlands of Iceland, between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. Its slopes are made of rhyolite, a volcanic rock that weathers into bright shades of red, orange, yellow and green, and its heart is Hveradalir, a geothermal valley full of steaming vents and boiling springs. Snow patches often last through summer, so you may see white snow, yellow sulphur and blue steam in one view.

Unlike most of the highlands, Kerlingarfjöll can be reached in a long day from Reykjavík, via Gullfoss waterfall and the Kjölur highland road. The catch: it is only accessible for a few months each summer.

Kerlingarfjöll at a glance

• Where: central highlands, off the Kjölur road (Kjalvegur, F35), north of Gullfoss.
• From Reykjavík: roughly 3.5 to 4 hours each way, including a stop at Gullfoss.
• Season: summer only. The highland road usually opens in June or early July and closes in September or October, depending on snow and conditions.
• Road: after Gullfoss, a highland gravel road; it is not suitable for small rental cars, and rental contracts often forbid highland F-roads without a 4x4.
• Highlight: the Hveradalir geothermal valley, with marked paths and viewing platforms.
• Our private tour: 10 to 12 hours from Reykjavík, from 151,000 kr per car (1 to 4) or 180,000 kr per van (5 to 7).

Hveradalir: the hot springs valley

Hveradalir means "valleys of hot springs", and it is exactly that: a cluster of valleys where steam rises from the ground, mud pots bubble and streams run warm. Minerals colour the clay in shades of ochre, red and white. Walking paths and viewing platforms lead through the area, so you can explore safely without stepping on fragile ground or hot soil.

• Easy walk: from the upper parking area down into the main valley and back, about 1 to 1.5 hours with stops.
• Longer hikes: marked trails lead up onto the surrounding ridges for wider views, for fit hikers with good weather.
• Stay on the paths: the ground can be boiling hot just under the surface, and the clay is easily damaged.

The drive: Gullfoss and the Kjölur road

The journey is part of the experience. From Reykjavík you cross the lowlands to Gullfoss, one of Iceland's most famous waterfalls, and then continue north on the Kjölur road, the old route across the highlands between Langjökull and Hofsjökull. The landscape opens up into wide gravel plains, glacier views and lonely mountains.

On the way you pass Bláfell mountain and the glacier lake Hvítárvatn, where Langjökull meets the water. In good weather the views of the ice caps are spectacular.

When can you visit?

Kerlingarfjöll is a summer destination. The highland roads in Iceland are closed in winter and spring, and they open only when the snow has melted and the road has been checked. In most years the Kjölur road opens in late June or early July and closes again in September or early October.

• July and August: the most reliable months, with long days and the best chance of an open road and dry paths.
• June: the road may still be closed; check before planning.
• September: possible in many years, with autumn colours and fewer people, but the first snow can arrive early.
• October to May: not accessible on a normal day trip.

Always check the current status of highland roads on the official road map at umferdin.is before you travel.

Weather and what to wear

Kerlingarfjöll lies at around 600 to 1,000 metres above sea level, and the weather is colder and more changeable than in Reykjavík. Snow can fall even in August, and the wind on the plateau can be strong.

• Waterproof jacket and trousers.
• Warm layers: fleece or wool, hat and gloves, even in summer.
• Hiking boots with good grip; the clay paths can be slippery after rain.
• Sunglasses and sunscreen; snow and light-coloured ground reflect the sun.
• Water and snacks, although there is a restaurant at the mountain resort.

Staying overnight

Kerlingarfjöll has a mountain resort, Highland Base, with hotel rooms, simpler accommodation, a restaurant and geothermal baths. Spending a night lets you hike more of the area and soak under the highland sky. We can drive you there one day and collect you another; message us for a fixed price.

How to get there without a 4x4

Many visitors cannot or do not want to drive a highland road themselves. A rental 4x4 is expensive, river crossings and gravel take experience, and the drive is long. With a private tour, you sit back, stop where you like and leave the road to someone who knows it.

Our private Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir tour picks you up at your hotel in Reykjavík early in the morning, stops at Gullfoss on the way, gives you time to walk in Hveradalir and brings you back in the evening. It takes 10 to 12 hours and costs 151,000 kr per car for 1 to 4 people or 180,000 kr per van for 5 to 7, available in the summer season when the road is open.

10–12 hours · private

Kerlingarfjöll + Hveradalir

Gullfoss · Highland route · Kerlingarfjöll · Hveradalir geothermal valley

Car

1–4 people

151,000 kr

Van

5–7 people

180,000 kr

Book this tour

Travel responsibly in the highlands

• Stay on marked paths; plants and soil in the highlands recover very slowly.
• Never drive off-road; it is illegal in Iceland and leaves scars for decades.
• Do not touch the water or mud in geothermal areas; it can be boiling.
• Take all rubbish with you.

The name and the legend

Kerlingarfjöll means "the old woman's mountains". The name comes from a tall rock pillar in the range called Kerling, the old woman. According to folklore, she was a troll who was caught by the rising sun on her way home and turned to stone, a fate that befalls many trolls in Icelandic stories.

Why the mountains are so colourful

Kerlingarfjöll is a central volcano, an old and deeply eroded one. Much of it is built of rhyolite, a light, silica-rich volcanic rock. Where hot water and steam rise through the ground, they alter the rock into soft clay coloured by iron and sulphur compounds: red, orange, yellow, white and green. The result is one of the most colourful landscapes in Iceland, especially striking when patches of snow remain on the slopes.

The same geothermal heat warms the ground in Hveradalir, keeps some streams warm all year and feeds the baths at the mountain resort.

From summer ski school to highland resort

For decades in the 20th century, Kerlingarfjöll was known for a summer ski school, where Icelanders skied on the snowfields in July. The ski school closed, but the area remained a hiking base with mountain huts. In recent years it has developed into a highland resort, while the Hveradalir valley has been protected, with paths and platforms to keep visitors and fragile ground apart.

A sample day from Reykjavík

1. 08:00 pick-up at your hotel in Reykjavík.
2. 10:00 stop at Gullfoss waterfall.
3. 10:30 continue north on the Kjölur highland road, with photo stops at Bláfell and the glacier lake Hvítárvatn.
4. 12:15 arrive at Kerlingarfjöll; lunch at the resort or a picnic.
5. 13:00 to 15:30 walk in Hveradalir and along the viewpoints.
6. 15:30 start the drive back, with a stop at Geysir if you like.
7. 19:00 to 20:00 back in Reykjavík.

Times depend on the road, the weather and how long you want to walk. On a private tour you decide the pace.

Photography tips

• Morning and late afternoon light brings out the colours of the rhyolite best.
• Steam is most visible on cool, still days.
• A wide-angle lens helps in the valleys; a short telephoto picks out patterns on the slopes.
• Protect your camera from fine, sticky clay and from steam.

Is this tour for you?

• Yes, if you want to see the highlands without driving a 4x4, love colourful landscapes and geothermal areas, and do not mind a long day in the car.
• Yes, for photographers and hikers who want something beyond the usual routes.
• Maybe not, if you have only a day or two in Iceland; start with the Golden Circle instead.
• Maybe not, with very young children, because of the long drive.

About our private tours

We have been driving travellers around Iceland for ten years, and we go everywhere in the country, not only to Reykjavík. Every tour is private for your group, with hotel pick-up, a fixed price per car and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

FAQ

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